On the arid plains of central Rajasthan, half way between Jaipur and Jaisalmer stands a small town called Nagaur. Wandering through the maze of streets, the markets and narrow lanes and with a view of the fort – it becomes evident that this is no ordinary town, but a unique medieval tapestry, created over several hundred years.

To unravel the secret of Nagaur one must travel back in time. More than eight hundred years ago Nagaur grew in importance as traders passed by on their arduous journey across the great Indian Thar desert carrying their precious cargo to Multan and Sind in Pakistan. Weary travellers, armies and generals, having crossed the desert from the west, embarked from Nagaur on their week long march to Delhi and the hinterland of India. Nagaur became an oasis beside the desert, a resting-place for the body and for the soul.

In the town of Nagaur many developments took place that stand testimony to its historic significance in the 12th and 16th century.

Nagaur during this period became the abode of famous Sufi saints and several mosques and tombs were built. These monuments are important, rare examples of pre-Mughal architecture of the provinces.

To the north of the town is the 14th century Mosque of Khwaha Makhdum Husain Naguri Chisti, the earliest dated monument here, said to have been used by one of the celebrated Sufi Shaiks of Nagaur, Makhdum Husain.

The Khanaqah Al-Tarikin and Buland Darwaza is another magnificent complex. Here stands the venerated tomb of the Sufi saint Hamid al-din Chisti, Sultan al Tarakin. Inside the enclosure are graves of several other saints making this an important place of pilgrimage.

During the Tughluq period we are told that Muhammad bin Tughluq added some additional structures to this complex. The Buland Darwaza or gateway carries an inscription that records that it was constructed in 1333 during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughluq, though from its style many scholars believe that it belongs to a slightly earlier period. The splendid Buland Darwaza has an enormous central arch profusely carved with stone and calligraphic decorations.

The last pre-Mughal period building in the town of Nagaur is the Shams Khan Masjid. During the 15th century when the Shams Khan family ruled this area, they modified the town plan of Nagaur and brought to its architecture many features from Gujarat. The Shams Khan Masjid is also decorated with glazed tiles. It was from the region of Multan, now in Pakistan, once famous for its glazed tile decoration that this feature was introduced into the buildings of Nagaur during the 15 century. Thus Nagaur records not only the passage of centuries but also its contact with the great cultures of north and north-western parts of the Indian sub-continent.

In 1532, Maldev of Marwar ascended the throne and Nagaur came under his rule. Sher Shah deposed Humayun, the second Mughal emperor from the throne of Delhi and displaced Maldev from Nagaur.

In the years between 1556-57, Emperor Akbar retook Nagaur and appointed Muslim nobles from his court to govern over this territory. Akbar came to Nagaur during his campaign and there are historical records of the Rajput princes who came to pay him homage there. In accordance with the custom after Akbar gained possession of Nagaur, a mosque was built for the town. The Akbari Jami Masjid, an important mosque of Akbar’s early reign, is a solid impressive building decorated with monochrome dark turquoise tiles.

by Simon Digby, art historian.